Complete Guide to Growing Garlic in Containers

Can you grow garlic in containers? You bet you can! I’ve done it myself plenty of times when I ran out of space in the garden or just couldn’t be bothered clearing a new bed. It’s one of those crops that doesn’t take much looking after, just a decent-sized pot, good soil, and a bit of patience. Whether you’re working with a tiny patio, a balcony, or just want to keep things close to the kitchen door, growing garlic in pots is totally doable – and completely worth it when you pull up your own fresh bulbs! Here’s how to get it right.

The Advantages of Growing Garlic In Containers

There are numerous benefits to growing garlic in containers vs directly in the garden. For starters, container growing gives you complete control over the soil quality. Garlic thrives in well-draining, fertile soil, which can be difficult to achieve in some garden plots. With pots, you can create the perfect growing medium from scratch.

Another major advantage is mobility. When you grow garlic in a pot, you can reposition your containers to maximize sunlight exposure or move them under protection during extreme weather. This is particularly helpful since garlic has a long growing season, typically 7-9 months from planting to harvest. Check out our yearly planting guide!

Container growing also minimizes issues with soil-borne diseases and pests that might affect your garden-grown garlic. Plus, if you’re short on garden space or only have a balcony or patio, pots let you grow garlic at home regardless of your living situation.

I’ve found that growing garlic in containers actually makes harvesting easier too – no digging required!

Is Container-Grown Garlic as Productive as Garden-grown Garlic?

This is a question I get asked frequently! While garden-grown garlic often produces larger bulbs due to the unrestricted growing space, container-grown garlic can absolutely be just as flavorful and nearly as productive with proper care.

The key factors that affect your garlic’s productivity in containers are:

• Adequate space,
• Proper soil depth,
• and consistent care.

I’ve found that container garlic may produce bulbs that are slightly smaller than their garden-grown counterparts, but the difference is minimal if done right. One advantage of container growing is the ability to control soil quality and watering, which can actually lead to healthier plants.

If you’re growing hardneck garlic varieties in containers, you’ll still get the bonus of delicious garlic scapes in late spring – a treat many gardeners look forward to almost as much as the bulbs themselves! For maximum productivity, I recommend selecting pot-friendly garlic varieties and making sure your containers are deep and wide enough for full bulb development.

How to plant garlic cloves in a container

Planting garlic in pots is pretty straightforward, but there are a few key steps to get right:

1. Pick the Right Time. Garlic is best planted in fall, about 4-6 weeks before your ground would normally freeze. This gives the cloves time to set roots before winter.
2. Choose Good Seed Garlic. Don’t use garlic from the supermarket. It’s often treated to stop it from sprouting. Look for seed garlic from a nursery or supplier you trust.
3. Prep Your Container. Use a pot that’s at least 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) deep with drainage holes. Fill it with a well-draining potting mix and mix in some compost. I also like to add a balanced organic fertilizer at this stage.
4. Break Up the Bulb. Gently break the head of garlic into individual cloves. Keep the papery skin on each clove – it helps protect them while they sprout and grow.
5. Plant the Cloves. Place each clove pointy end up, about 2 inches (5 cm) deep. Space them 4 inches (10 cm) apart so they’ve got room to form full-sized bulbs.
6. Water Well. Water the pot thoroughly after planting, then keep the soil just moist – not soggy – while they settle in.

How deep should I plant garlic cloves in a pot?

As a general rule, garlic cloves should be planted about 2-3 inches deep in containers. This depth provides enough soil coverage to protect the developing clove while not being so deep that the emerging shoot struggles to reach the surface. Plant cloves with the pointed end facing up – this is the end that will sprout.

When I’m planting, I use my finger to create holes about 3 inches deep, drop in the clove (pointy end up), and then gently cover with soil. Don’t press down too firmly on the soil after planting. Water thoroughly but gently to settle the soil around the cloves without washing them out.

If you’re in a colder climate, add a layer of mulch on top of the soil to provide extra insulation during winter months.

How many garlic cloves can I plant in one container?

The number of garlic cloves you can plant in a single container depends on the container’s size. As a basic guideline, each clove needs to be about 4-6 inches away from its neighbors to have enough room to grow into a full bulb.

For a standard 12-inch diameter pot, you can comfortably fit 4-6 cloves. In a rectangular planter, calculate the space based on this same spacing requirement. I’ve found that crowding garlic in containers is one of the most common mistakes – it’s tempting to try to maximize your harvest by squeezing in extra cloves, but this actually reduces overall yield as the developing bulbs compete for nutrients, water, and space. I like to arrange them in a grid pattern to maximize the space.

What size pot or container is needed for garlic?

Choose a container that’s at least 6-8 (20-25 cm) inches deep. I recommend using a pot with a minimum diameter of 8-10 inches, which typically allows you to plant 4-6 garlic cloves with proper spacing. For larger harvests, choose a large pot or planter box that provides more surface area. Each garlic clove needs about 4-6 inches of space.

The container material isn’t critical – terracotta, plastic, or fabric grow bags all work well – but drainage is absolutely essential. Whatever pot you choose must have adequate drainage holes to prevent waterlogged soil, which can cause garlic bulbs to rot. I personally prefer wider, shallower containers over deep, narrow ones since garlic roots don’t extend extremely deep, and the wider surface area allows for planting more cloves in a single container.

Can I Buy garlic from the grocery store to plant in containers?

I strongly advise against using grocery store garlic for planting in containers or anywhere else. While it might seem like a money-saving shortcut, it often leads to disappointment for several reasons. Most grocery store garlic is treated with growth inhibitors to extend their shelf life, which can prevent sprouting.

Store-bought garlic is often imported from regions with different growing conditions than yours, meaning it may not be well-adapted to your local climate. And most importantly, you won’t know what type of garlic you’re growing – hardneck, softneck, or a specific variety – which makes planning your growing season difficult.

I recommend purchasing seed garlic from reputable garden centers, nurseries, or online specialty suppliers. Seed garlic is specifically grown for planting, free from treatments that inhibit growth, and properly labeled by variety.

While it costs more upfront, the investment pays off in better germination rates, healthier plants, and ultimately better garlic bulbs at harvest time. Once you’ve successfully grown your own garlic, you can save the best cloves from your harvest for replanting, creating a sustainable cycle of homegrown garlic!

The Best types of garlic for containers

Not all garlic is created equal when it comes to growing in pots. Some types just handle it better than others. The two main categories are softneck and hardneck, and both can work – but your climate and setup will play a big role in what does best.

Softneck garlic tends to be more flexible (literally and figuratively). It stores well, doesn’t mind a bit of warmth, and often produces more cloves per bulb. If you’re growing in a mild climate or plan to keep your containers in a sheltered spot, softneck varieties are a safe bet. Try:

• California Early – Reliable, stores well, and does fine in warmer areas.
• Inchelium Red – A great-tasting heirloom softneck that performs well in containers.

Hardneck garlic usually grows fewer but larger cloves and needs a proper cold period to form bulbs. It’s a good choice if you’re growing in a cooler climate and leaving pots outdoors over winter. Some types worth trying:

• Music – One of the most popular hardnecks; strong flavor and solid container performance.
• Chesnok Red – Excellent roasting garlic with good cold tolerance.
• German Extra Hardy – True to its name, great for cold climates and rugged enough for container life.

If you’re in a warm region but still want to try hardneck garlic, you can mimic that cold period by popping the cloves in the fridge for a few weeks before planting—this helps trigger bulb formation.

I’ve also had great luck with some of the Asian types, like Chinese Pink and Japanese garlic. They’re fast-growing, don’t need a long chill, and don’t mind the slightly tighter quarters in a container.

One more tip – avoid the jumbo varieties if your pot isn’t very deep. Those types tend to want more space than a small container can give. Look for compact growers with a track record of doing well in home gardens.

Is hardneck or softneck garlic better for container growing?

You can grow both, but they’re a bit different. Softneck garlic is usually the easiest in containers—especially if you’re in a warmer climate (zones 7–10). It stores longer, doesn’t need a cold spell to bulb up, and it’s less picky overall.

Hardneck garlic prefers a proper winter chill, so it’s a better match if you’re in a colder area (zones 3–6). That said, I’ve grown it in pots here by making sure the cloves got enough cold before planting—or by keeping the container outside through winter. The bonus with hardneck? You get scapes too, which are great for cooking.

If you’re just starting out or you live in a mild climate, go with softneck. If you want flavor and you’re up for the challenge, hardneck’s worth it.

Which garlic varieties produce the best garlic scapes in containers?

If you’re growing garlic for the scapes, go with hardneck types – softnecks don’t produce them. Scapes are those curly flower stalks that pop up in late spring, and they’re one of my favorite bonus harvests.

Some hardneck groups are better than others when it comes to scapes. Rocambole, Purple Stripe, and Porcelain varieties usually give you nice thick stalks with great flavor. In containers, I’ve had good luck with Music, Georgian Crystal, and Russian Red. They seem to handle pots well and still give a decent harvest of both scapes and bulbs.

Make sure your container is deep – at least 6-8 inches (15–20 cm) – and don’t skip the cold period. Hardneck garlic needs that winter chill to form both bulbs and scapes. If you’re in a warmer climate, you might need to chill your cloves in the fridge for a few weeks before planting, or move your pots to a shady, cold corner over winter.

I usually snip scapes once they curl but before they go straight. After that, they toughen up. Depending on your climate, that’s usually around late May or June.

Quick tip: Garlic scapes are great sautéed in butter like green beans, tossed in a stir-fry, or blitzed into pesto. I usually chop them and freeze a few batches too – they hold up well and make a nice garlic hit when you’re out of bulbs.

Can I grow elephant garlic in containers?

Yes, you can grow elephant garlic in containers but it needs a lot more room than regular garlic. Despite the name, elephant garlic (Allium ampeloprasum) is actually more closely related to leeks. It grows massive bulbs that take up more space and time, but the payoff is worth it. It produces mild, sweet cloves that roast beautifully and store well.

If you’re planting just one clove, give it a pot that’s at least 12 inches (30 cm) across and 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) deep. For more than one, use a big container (like a half wine barrel or deep tub) and space cloves at least 8 inches (20 cm) apart.

Plant in fall, pointy end up, about 3 inches (7-8 cm) deep – the same as you would with regular garlic. Elephant garlic has a long growing season, so make sure it gets full sun and regular watering. Because the bulbs are bigger, they need more moisture. Don’t let the pot dry out for too long between waterings.

I’ve grown it in containers and, while it doesn’t always hit the full garden-grown size, it still gets impressively big. The flavor is milder than regular garlic, almost somewhere between garlic and onion, and the cloves are easy to peel. Just don’t try to cram it into a small pot or you’ll end up with tiny bulbs.

How to Care for Garlic in Containers Through the Growing Season

Garlic has a long growing season, so container-grown plants need a bit of ongoing attention to stay on track. Once you’ve planted your cloves in fall, they’ll quietly get to work below the surface. You won’t see much action above ground at first, but roots are forming before the cold sets in. Come spring, they’ll wake up and shoot out fresh green leaves.

Keep your containers somewhere that gets at least 6 hours of direct sun a day. That’s the minimum garlic needs to grow strong bulbs. One of the best things about using pots is that you can shift them around to follow the sun, something I’ve done plenty of times when shady spots crept in as trees leafed out.

Watering can be tricky. Garlic wants consistent moisture but doesn’t like wet feet. I check my pots often and water when the top couple of inches (about 5 cm) of soil feels dry. Good drainage is key! Your container should never hold water in the bottom.

I also look for problems regularly. Yellowing leaves can mean your soil’s too dry or has poor drainage. Aphids and fungal issues can also pop up, especially if the plant or soil stays too damp. I’ve found it’s easier to spot problems early in containers, so a quick check every few days really helps.

By late spring, hardneck varieties will send up curly garlic scapes. Snip them off once they curl fully. This helps the bulb size up and gives you a bonus crop in the kitchen.

How often should You water garlic in a pot?

Garlic in containers dries out quicker than garlic in the ground, so you’ll probably be watering it more often, especially once the weather warms up. I usually stick my finger in the soil, and if the top inch (2.5 cm) feels dry, it’s time to water. In spring, that might be every 3-5 days. In summer, it could be daily if it’s hot and dry.

But you’ve got to be careful not to overdo it. Too much water and you’ll end up with soggy soil, which garlic hates. That’s when you get problems like rot or fungal disease. I always make sure my pots have good drainage holes and never let them sit in a saucer of water.

When the plants start to mature, around early to mid-summer, I begin cutting back on watering. About two or three weeks before harvest, I stop completely. That helps the bulbs finish up and start drying out a bit, which makes them store better after harvest.

A few extra tips:

• Check more often on windy days too. Wind can dry out pots faster than you’d expect.
• Water at the base, not over the leaves. Wet foliage can lead to disease.
• Terracotta pots dry out way faster than plastic or glazed ones. I’ve had to water terracotta containers nearly twice as often.

When Should You Move the Pot Indoors or Add Protection?

If you’re in a mild climate (zones 7-10), your garlic can usually stay outside all winter. I leave mine out year-round in large pots with a thick layer of mulch, and it does just fine.

But if you’re in a colder zone (3-6), garlic in pots needs a bit more care. Unlike in-ground garlic, the soil in containers can freeze solid, and that’s rough on the roots. Once nighttime temps start dipping below 20°F (around -6°C), it’s time to think about protection.

You don’t have to drag your pots inside the house (that’s often too warm), but you might want to move them into a cold but sheltered spot like an unheated garage, shed, or even a cold frame. Just make sure there’s still airflow and it’s not pitch black – garlic doesn’t go fully dormant.

If your pots have to stay outside, insulate them. I’ve used bubble wrap, old towels, straw, even stacked hay bales around my containers when a frost warning hit. You can also group your pots together against a wall to protect them from wind and trap a bit of heat.

A few tips:

• Don’t keep them too warm. Garlic needs cold exposure to form proper bulbs.
• Keep an eye on the rain. If the pots get soaked and then freeze, that’s a recipe for rot.
• Move them back to full sun as soon as the worst of winter passes and days start warming up.

How Do I Fertilize Garlic Plants Growing in Containers?

Garlic is a long-haul crop, and when you’re growing it in a pot, it needs a steady supply of nutrients to keep growing strong. Containers don’t have the luxury of deep soil and worms doing the work, so you’ve got to help out a bit.

When I plant my garlic, I mix a good handful of slow-release organic fertilizer into the potting mix. Something balanced, like a 5-5-5 or 4-3-6, works well to get things started. I also like to add a bit of compost or aged manure, just enough to enrich the mix without overdoing it.

Once the shoots come up in early spring, I start feeding again. I use a liquid fish emulsion or seaweed-based feed every couple of weeks while the plants are actively growing. Garlic loves a bit of nitrogen early on, but don’t go overboard! Too much and you’ll end up with lush tops and tiny bulbs.

By late spring, I ease up on the nitrogen and switch to something with a bit more potassium and phosphorus, like a tomato feed. This helps the bulbs develop instead of just pushing more leafy growth.

A few tips from my own routine:

• Stop feeding completely a few weeks before harvest to help the bulbs cure in the soil.
• Water first, then feed. This stops fertilizer burn.
• Don’t fertilize when the soil is bone dry.

More Container Garlic Questions

How do I grow garlic in a pot instead of the garden?

To grow garlic in a pot, fill a container (at least 6-8 inches deep / 15-20 cm) with well-draining potting mix and compost. Plant individual cloves, pointy end up, about 2-3 inches deep (5-7 cm) and 4 inches (10 cm) apart. Keep the pot in full sun, water when the top inch dries out, and feed lightly during active growth. Garlic takes 7-9 months to mature and is harvested when the lower leaves start to brown.

When should I plant garlic in a container?

Plant garlic in a container in fall, about 4-6 weeks before your ground would normally freeze. This gives the cloves time to grow roots before going dormant in winter. In most parts of the U.S., that’s sometime between late September and November. If you’re in a warmer climate, you can plant a bit later, but aim to give garlic some chill time.

When and how do I harvest garlic from a pot?

Harvest garlic from your pot in early to mid-summer, usually around 7-9 months after planting. You’ll know it’s ready when the lower leaves start turning brown and dry out, but the top few are still green, usually in June or July depending on your climate.

To harvest, gently loosen the soil and lift the bulbs by the base, not by the stalk, which can snap. Brush off the dirt (don’t wash them yet) and let the bulbs cure in a warm, dry, airy place out of direct sun for 2-3 weeks. Once the skins are papery, they’re ready to trim and store.

What are the advantages of growing garlic in pots versus in the ground?

Growing garlic in pots has a few handy perks, especially if you’re short on space or dealing with poor soil.

• You control the soil. No need to worry about clay, drainage, or soil-borne diseases. You can fill the pot with exactly what garlic likes: loose, well-draining, nutrient-rich soil.
• Easy to move. You can shift your pot to follow the sun, shelter it from heavy rain, or protect it from frost.
• Less weeding. Containers mean fewer weeds competing for nutrients and space.
• Good for small spaces. Balconies, patios, even sunny windows can all work. You don’t need a garden bed to grow great garlic.
• Fewer pests. You’re less likely to deal with issues like onion root maggots or nematodes in fresh potting mix.

Do I need to store my garlic in a special way after harvest?

Yes – but it’s simple. After you harvest your garlic from the pot, you’ll want to cure it properly before storing. That just means drying it out so it stores longer and doesn’t rot.

Here’s what to do:

1. Leave the leaves on. Don’t cut the tops off yet. The garlic will continue pulling nutrients from the leaves while drying.
2. Dry somewhere shady and airy, out of direct sun. A shed, garage, or breezy patio works. Lay the bulbs out or hang them in small bundles.
3. Let them cure for 2–4 weeks, until the outer layers are dry, papery, and the necks feel firm. The roots should be dry and brittle.
4. Once fully cured, trim the roots and cut the stems off (or braid them if you like that look).
5. Store in a cool, dry place out of sunlight. A pantry, mesh bag, or open basket in a cupboard is perfect. Don’t store garlic in the fridge, it’ll sprout.

If you’ve grown a softneck variety, it’ll usually last longer in storage than hardneck types. Either way, homegrown garlic stores best when it’s well-cured and kept somewhere with good airflow.

Can You Grow Garlic In Containers Over Winter?

Yes, you can grow garlic in containers over winter—but you’ll need to adapt depending on your climate.

In Mild Winters (like much of the southern US, coastal areas, parts of Australia/NZ, UK, etc.)

Garlic actually prefers a period of cold. It helps trigger proper bulb formation. So if your winters are cool but not freezing solid, you’re in a good spot. You can plant garlic in containers in fall, leave the pots outside, and let nature do its thing. Just make sure your pot is deep (at least 6-8 inches) and has excellent drainage.

In these regions:

• Plant in fall (Oct-Nov)
• Leave pots outdoors, maybe mulch lightly to prevent drying out
• Water sparingly over winter – only when the soil feels dry
• Resume regular care in spring as the shoots take off

In Cold Winters (northern US, much of Canada, parts of Europe)

The challenge with container garlic in cold regions is that pots don’t insulate like soil does. The roots can freeze and die if temperatures drop too low.

If you’re in zone 6 or lower:

• Still plant in fall– the cloves need that cold spell
• Use large containers (the more soil, the better the insulation)
• Once it’s consistently dropping below -6°C (20°F), protect the pots
  • Move to an unheated garage, shed, or cold frame
  • Or, insulate: wrap the pot in bubble wrap, mulch heavily, or bury the whole thing in the ground or in a larger insulated box
• Don’t bring pots into a warm house, this can interrupt vernalization (the period of cold that garlic needs to form proper bulbs. Without it, you’ll end up with small or single-clove bulbs) and confuse the garlic

In Canada, you’ll almost always need to protect container garlic unless you’re growing in a milder zone (like coastal BC). Wrapping the pots and tucking them into a sheltered spot works well. Some growers even keep them in an unheated greenhouse or stairwell.

In Hot Climates (zones 9–10, parts of Australia, India, etc.)

Garlic can be fussier. You may need to chill your seed garlic in the fridge for 4-6 weeks before planting to simulate that winter cold. Then, plant into containers in autumn (or as soon as nights cool a bit). Keep the pot in the coolest part of your garden and mulch well. Elephant garlic works well in these zones!

So, Can You Grow Garlic In Containers?

Yes, you can most certainly grow great crops of garlic in containers. With the right pot, good soil, and a little planning around the seasons, you’ll be harvesting fresh, homegrown garlic no matter how small your space is.

If this article helped you out, feel free to bookmark or share it, and if you’ve had any success (or hiccups!) growing garlic in pots, I’d love to hear about it in the comments!